[SUBW-A] [SUBW] trip report: Gangerang / Kowmung walk 22-24 May

[Tim Vollmer]

As promised, if you want to check out a few photos from this walk
(taken during brief breaks in the rain) check out Joshua's pics -
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=Ricardovalomas&target=ALBUM&id=5340846662015328433&authkey=Gv1sRgCMDpmJfc06ShUA&authkey=Gv1sRgCMDpmJfc06ShUA&feat=email

Tim


> --- On Mon, 25/5/09, Tim Vollmer <tim.vollmer at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Tim Vollmer <tim.vollmer at gmail.com>
> Subject: [SUBW] trip report: Gangerang / Kowmung walk 22-24 May
> To: subw at lists.anatomy.usyd.edu.au
> Received: Monday, 25 May, 2009, 11:54 PM
>
> Gangerang / Kowmung walk - Friday 22 May to  Sunday 24 May
>
> Party: Tim Vollmer, Joshua Hill, Huey
>
> After several days of rain, flooding up north and promises of more
> rain to come, two foolhardy souls decided to push ahead with a three
> day stroll out from Kanangra.
> The drive out on Friday morning started with light drizzle, slowly
> increasing to a torrential downpour by the time Katoomba was reached.
> The drive out through Jenolan Caves only increased the trepidation as
> the road was littered with branches and even a couple fallen trees!
> Eventually the walls were reached and despite thick mist and constant
> rain the two intrepid adventurers left the otherwise empty car park.
> We soon realised the clouds were well down in the valley, there would
> be no improvement to the poor visibility of not more than 30 metres,
> and we would not be getting any spectacular views. This lead to the
> decision to modify the walk slightly, by reversing the direction,
> heading to the Kowmung first and hoping for a fine final day for the
> walk on the Gangerang Range.
> Just like the rest of the walk, recent hazard reduction burns had left
> sections of scrub blackened, creating stark contrasts between burnt
> and unburnt sides of the track and some surreal landscapes in the
> mist.
> At Coal Seam cave we admired the lovely dryness, but fought the urge
> to set up camp and traipsed down the Gingra Range. Soon I was
> questioning my decision not to bring a rain jacket, but was still
> hoping it would clear and I would dry out. It just goes to show I will
> never be getting a job as a weatherman!
> We eventually got under the cloud, although not under the rain. There
> were a some occasional pauses in the foul weather where a glimpse of
> blue was seen. Unfortunately, each was followed by a smirking Huey as
> a fresh gust of wind brought yet more driving rain. The one plus side
> was that no photos were taken and few rest stops granted, and we made
> great time to the Kowmung. Actually the other plus was seeing
> impromptu waterfalls streaming off the cliffs on Ti Willa Plateau.
> When we arrived the river was raging, filling the valley with a
> thunderous roar. It was at least 30 metres wide at the camp site (and
> about 40 metres by morning, which did make use question our choice of
> camp site!)
> We set up the tent and a little shelter and got started on the fire.
> Everything was wet, and not that superficial damp on the outside, but
> the soaked-to-the-centre-dripping-wet kind of state where you can take
> bark off a tree, squeeze it, and have water come out as if it were
> moss. Over a painful hour and a half we (and by we I mainly mean
> Joshua who is now officially the best fire-lighter I know) chipped
> tiny slivers of wood, blew air on the embers with a camelbak hose, and
> attempted to stop the driving rain from extinguishing the tiny flame.
> Eventually it bust into life and we stood in the drizzle enjoying the
> glorious fire.
> Despite all the work, the weather got the better of us and by about
> 6.30 we were in the tent, fed, watered and liquored up, ready for
> sleep. The rain didn't let up, and by morning we discovered the river
> was now substantially closer to our tent (it had risen about half a
> metre) and the spot I had washed up in was now a raging torrent. We
> packed up after a relaxed breakfast and got on our way.
> After a short walk down the river to admire the flying fox (and
> serious consideration being given to using some rope, tape and a
> carabiner to cross over the river) we began the climb up Stockyard
> Spur to Ti Willa Ridge.
> The rain eased then stopped, we made great time and thanks to some
> brilliant navigating through the scrub higher up hit the cliffline
> less than 5 metres from the chains of Campagnoni Pass. We climbed to
> the top, followed the cliff about 30 metres to a perfect lunch rock
> and proceeded to have a long, relaxing feed. Plenty of photos were
> taken thanks to the best weather we had received thus far, and much
> time was wasted.
> Eventually we continued along Ti Willa Ridge with the plan to head to
> Hundred Man Cave. At first it was easy going, clear weather and none
> of the nasty scrub we had heard about. When we finally did hit the
> really swampy banksia scrub we decided to scoot over to the west and
> check out the views over to the Gangerang Plateau. We weren't
> disappointed and more photos were taken of all the waterfalls rushing
> off into what is unquestionably one of the most beautiful valleys /
> gorges in the mountains. Even high up we could hear the roar of the
> normally placid creek below. Unfortunately, the fun times spent
> photographing, exploring and examining the world's narrowest slot
> canyon (about 3 or 4 cms, dropping most of the way down the cliff!)
> wasted what little good weather we had, and Huey returned with a
> vengance, racing up the valley, engulfing us with cloud and once again
> pissing down rain (which didn't ease up until about 9am on Sunday).
> At this point I will say that I have always thought the SUBW use of
> the term "Huey" was a bit of a wank. After all, what does everyone
> have against a big, cuddly, affable bloke who loves to cook? After
> this weekend, and Huey's repeated, deliberate, vindictive attacks on
> us, I completely understand the need to personify him (and his evil
> mistress Cloudmaker).
> Anyway, we resumed our search for Hundred Man Cave (which neither of
> us had been too) in the driving rain, through horrendous scrub, with
> what was definitely the worst visibility of the trip. My attempt to
> cross reference Dunphy's map with the topo had me locating the cave
> about 400m away from its proper location, which in conditions like
> this was a substantial margin of error. So we searched for about half
> an hour, did a few zig-zags and loop-the-loops (and Joshua lost his
> watch, given to him by his wife, as a wedding gift... yes, he is
> sleeping on the couch), before the dying light made us realise we
> weren't going to make it and better find a spot to camp.
> Considering the swamp, scrub, mud, rock etc which made up 95% of the
> area, we were lucky to quickly find a nice little camp site and bed
> down. We again started the process of trying to light a fire. After
> half an hour we gave up. We had discovered a new kind of wetness even
> more horrendous than the day before and the rain was heavier.
> We climbed into the tent, warmed ourselves up and cooked in the
> vestibule because there was no way we were going to be going back
> outside. (That same desire led to debates later in the evening about
> the appropriateness of peeing in a cup in the tent... ;-)
> We stuffed our faces with chocolate to cheer ourselves up, got into
> the irish whiskey, bourbon and pisco, then had another early night.
> In the morning it was still raining. I tried to convince Joshua that
> we should just spend the day in the tent because there was no way I
> was getting out of my sleeping bag and putting those sopping when
> Volleys back on! I lost the argument and we got moving.
> As we packed up the rain stopped and the visibility began to markedly
> improved. We moved along the ridge, dropped into a nicely flowing
> creek for water, then started up the other side. Looking up, we
> suddenly saw a great camp cave appearing. Sure enough, only a few
> hundred metres from our wet, miserable spot was Hundred Man Cave,
> complete with dry firewood. We mentally logged its location for future
> reference then kept on going.
> It was an enjoyable stroll up towards Cloudmaker, and a great feeling
> to be on top. We then started on the final push to the cars, for which
> Huey finally decided to cooperate, lifting the cloud by Stormbreaker
> and giving us a fairly pleasant walk. The sun even managed to peek
> through at times, illuminating the walls, with Crafts Walls looking
> particularly spectacular.
> The final day, despite supposedly being a shorter one, took until
> sunset because we kept finding great spots to pause and admire the
> chasm below, the torrents of water flowing into the valley, and some
> exciting canyons on the other wall which are now on the to-do list for
> summer.
> I don't think I have ever been that wet, certainly not for that long,
> and our inability to find the cave on Saturday night was a tad
> depressing, but overall it was a surprisingly good trip in the face of
> adversity.
>
> Photos to follow once Joshua emails some to me.
>
> --
> Tim Vollmer
> Mob: 0404 273 313
> Email: tim.vollmer at gmail.com